- Guide
- Trees & Planting
Is October Too Late to Plant Trees in Oklahoma?
Why fall still works here, the planting mistakes Oklahoma clay punishes, and exactly how much mulch a new tree needs.
No, October is not too late. In Oklahoma it is one of the best times of the year to plant a tree. Oklahoma State University Extension says early fall is the best planting window for container-grown and balled-and-burlapped trees, and October is still inside it. Get the tree in the ground early in the month, plant it high in our clay, and do not fill the hole with compost. The two real exceptions are bare-root trees and broadleaf evergreens like holly and Southern magnolia, which OSU says to plant in spring.
Why fall works so well here
In Oklahoma, it is not winter that kills young trees. It is their first summer. A tree planted in spring has only a few weeks to grow roots before July heat and wind start pulling water out of its leaves faster than a small root system can replace it. A tree planted in fall gets the cool months to root in. OSU's planting guide explains that fall-planted trees have more time to establish a root system before the onset of summer heat. By the time the first 100-degree week arrives, a fall-planted tree has a head start a spring-planted one never gets.
Plant now, or wait for spring?
Fall is not right for every tree. The best time depends on how the tree was grown and what kind it is:
| Tree type | Best time to plant in Oklahoma | Plant this October? |
|---|---|---|
| Container-grown trees | Early fall | Yes, the earlier in the month the better |
| Balled and burlapped (B&B) | Early fall | Yes |
| Pines | Early fall | Yes |
| Bare-root trees | Mid-February to mid-April | No, wait for late winter |
| Broadleaf evergreens (holly, Southern magnolia) | Spring | No, wait for spring |
Timing from OSU Extension fact sheets HLA-6414 and L-440.
For most homeowners, OSU says a five-gallon container tree is the size most likely to transplant successfully and is the most cost-effective. Bigger is not always better for a tree you are planting yourself.
How to plant a tree in Oklahoma clay
Most yards around Norman sit on heavy red clay, and clay changes the rules. Here is what OSU recommends, and what it looks like in the ground:
- Check for buried debris first. OSU recommends probing 12 to 18 inches deep for construction debris and removing it, since new builds often bury rubble near the foundation. With so many new homes going up across Norman, Moore, and Edmond, this step matters.
- Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole two to three times wider than the rootball and no deeper than it. Roots spread out sideways into the loosened soil, not down.
- Plant it high. In clay, set the top of the rootball 1 to 3 inches above the surrounding grade. Clay drains slowly, and a tree set at grade or below can end up sitting in water.
- Strip everything off. Remove the container, plus any string and wire around the trunk. If the roots are circling the pot, lightly score the outside of the rootball.
- Backfill with the soil you dug out. Tamp it lightly. No compost, no garden soil, and no gravel in the bottom.
The honest part: do not buy soil for the hole
We sell compost and garden soil by the cubic yard, and we would still tell you not to put either one in a tree's planting hole. OSU Extension is direct about this: backfill with native soil, because amendments "are not necessary and may result in further complications such as root rot." The same goes for a layer of gravel in the bottom of the hole, which OSU says does not improve drainage either.
The reason is simple. In dense Oklahoma clay, a pocket of loose, rich soil acts like a bowl. Water runs into it faster than the surrounding clay can carry it away, and the roots sit wet. Roots also tend to stay in the comfortable soil instead of spreading into the clay they will have to live in for decades. If your drainage is truly bad, fix the drainage or choose a tree that tolerates wet clay. Better soil in the hole will not solve it.
A whole new garden bed is a different job. If you are building a bed for shrubs, perennials, or vegetables rather than setting a single tree, you are improving the entire area instead of creating one wet pocket in the clay. For new garden beds, the blend we recommend most often to the homeowners and landscapers who come through our yard is half compost and half topsoil, mixed through the whole bed.
Where a new tree does benefit from something you buy is on top of the ground.
Mulch: the one thing worth buying
A ring of mulch keeps grass and weeds from competing with the roots, holds moisture, and steadies soil temperature through Oklahoma's freeze-and-thaw winters. OSU's recommendation is organic mulch 2 to 4 inches deep and 5 to 6 feet across, kept 2 to 4 inches away from the trunk. Never pile it up against the bark. (Our mulch depth guide explains why the "mulch volcano" harms trees.)
Here is how much mulch that works out to, using a 3-inch depth:
| New trees | 5-foot rings | 6-foot rings |
|---|---|---|
| 1 tree | 0.18 cubic yards | 0.26 cubic yards |
| 2 trees | 0.36 cubic yards | 0.52 cubic yards |
| 4 trees | 0.73 cubic yards | 1.05 cubic yards |
| 8 trees | 1.45 cubic yards | 2.09 cubic yards |
| 12 trees | 2.18 cubic yards | 3.14 cubic yards |
Calculated from a circle of the stated diameter at 3 inches deep. One cubic yard is 27 cubic feet.
The rule of thumb: about a quarter yard per tree, so four new trees take about one cubic yard. For just one or two trees, a full yard is more than you need. Ask about our fill-your-tote option for smaller projects instead, listed on our mulch page. Undyed natural mulch is a good, affordable choice for tree rings, starting at $32 per cubic yard on our pricing page.
Getting a new tree through its first fall and winter
- Water deeply and slowly. OSU recommends the equivalent of about 1 inch of rain per week for young plantings and notes that natural rainfall usually is not enough. Apply it slowly at the base so it soaks in rather than running off the clay. A container rootball can dry out even when the soil around it feels damp, so check the rootball itself.
- Do not drown it. Overwatering pushes oxygen out of the soil and damages roots, and clay holds water a long time. Feel the soil a few inches down before you water.
- Skip the fertilizer. A new tree cannot use much yet, and OSU says heavy fertilizing at planting is not recommended. If you must, use a controlled-release or liquid fertilizer at the lowest labeled rate.
- Stake only if you have to. Oklahoma wind is real, but OSU advises staking only top-heavy trees or trees in windswept spots. Use broad, soft ties, leave room for the tree to sway, and remove the stakes after one growing season so the trunk builds its own strength.
- Wrap thin-barked trees for winter. For thin-barked trees such as ash, maple, linden, and birch, OSU suggests a loose trunk wrap from October through March for the first two seasons. Take it off each spring.
- Go easy on pruning. Remove only broken or diseased branches. OSU warns that over-pruning a new tree can lead to sunscald and slow its growth.
For OSU's complete checklist and a list of tree species that grow well in Oklahoma, see their Tree Planting Guide.
Ready to plant?
Get your trees in early this month, plant them high, backfill with your own soil, and finish with a wide ring of mulch. We carry natural, cedar, and pine bark mulch by the cubic yard at our Norman yard, for pickup or delivery across Norman and the surrounding area. If you are mulching several new trees, tell us how many and we will help you get the amount right. Call (405) 826-2001 or stop by. Also worth reading this month: the best time to mulch in Oklahoma.
People Also Ask
Common Questions About This Topic
Is it too late to plant trees in October in Oklahoma?
No. Oklahoma State University Extension says early fall is the best time to plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped trees, and October is still inside that window. Plant as early in the month as you can so roots get more time before winter. The exceptions are bare-root trees, which go in from mid-February to mid-April, and broadleaf evergreens like holly and Southern magnolia, which do better planted in spring.
Can you plant trees in November in Oklahoma?
Often, yes, for container-grown trees. OSU Extension notes that many containerized trees can be planted any time if they are handled properly, so a November planting can succeed as long as the ground is workable and you keep the roots watered. It is riskier than early fall, though, because the tree has less time to root in before winter. If you have the choice, plant earlier.
Should I put compost or garden soil in the hole when planting a tree?
No. OSU Extension says to backfill the planting hole with the native soil you dug out and not to add amendments, because they are not necessary and can lead to problems such as root rot. In Oklahoma clay, a pocket of loose, rich soil in the hole can hold water around the roots. Spend your money on mulch over the root zone instead.
Should you fertilize a newly planted tree in the fall?
Hold off. A new tree cannot use much fertilizer until it is established, and OSU Extension says heavy fertilization at planting is not recommended because excess fertilizer in the root zone can do damage. If you feel you must fertilize in the first season, use a controlled-release or liquid fertilizer at the lowest labeled rate.
How often should I water a newly planted tree in the fall?
Aim for the equivalent of about one inch of water a week, applied slowly at the base of the tree. OSU Extension notes that rainfall alone usually is not enough for new trees, but also warns against overwatering, which starves roots of oxygen, a real risk in clay. Check the soil before you water, and water more often only during hot, dry, windy stretches.
How much mulch does a newly planted tree need?
About a quarter of a cubic yard per tree. OSU Extension recommends a ring of organic mulch 2 to 4 inches deep and 5 to 6 feet across. A 6-foot ring at 3 inches deep works out to roughly 0.26 cubic yards, so four new trees need about one cubic yard of mulch.
